Keeper’s brown-butter & watercress trout
Stockbridge on the River Test: keeper’s brown trout
Two small brown trout from Test beats or the Itchen at Alresford, each about 250–350 g, make the quickest plate: crisp skin, nutty browned butter and a hit of peppery watercress.
Lightly season and pat dry, dust with a tablespoon or two of plain flour or potato starch. Heat 2 tbsp butter in a heavy pan over medium until it foams and just turns light brown; that nutty smell is the signal. Lay fish skin-side down, cook 2–3 minutes, turn and a further 1–2 minutes until just done—total 5–6 minutes on the hob.
Quick finish & sides
Off the heat add 1 tsp lemon juice and a small handful of chopped watercress to the butter for 10–20 seconds so it wilts but stays bright. Spoon the foaming butter over the trout and serve with new potatoes or crusty bread for a true chalk-stream plate.
For a waterside smoking tip: cure very fresh small trout 30–60 minutes with salt and a little sugar, then cold-smoke in a cool smoker or improvised smoke box over alder or oak chips at about 60–80°C until the flesh takes a pale gold sheen. Small chalk-stream trout take smoke fast; keep it whisper-light to preserve delicate flavour.
Evening rises on the Test near Bossington or the Itchen by Winchester; the trout feed hard and a simple brown-butter finish keeps the river on the plate.
Recommended: portable smoker box