Thames Pike Cakes
At Chiswick Eyot, a 5–7 lb Thames jack can turn a May dusk into theatre.
One cast often does it: a 12-foot float rod, 6 lb mono and a size 4 single hook baited with roach strip—then the Y-shaped jaws explode from the tannin. Thames pike, Esox lucius, haunt weirs from Putney to Teddington Reach and have fed tables since Tudor nights at Hampton Court; folk still call them the river's water wolves.
For pub-night beer-battered Thames pike cakes, use about 1.5 lbs skinned fillet (a 24-inch hen yields roughly that), 1 cup mashed King Edward potato, 1 egg, 3/4 cup plain flour, 1/2 cup cold bitter ale such as London Pride, 1 tsp baking powder, salt, black pepper and a pinch of cayenne. For the horseradish pickle simmer 1 cup malt vinegar with 2 tbsp grated horseradish, a sliced shallot and 1 tsp sugar; cool and chill to sharpen.
Method
Rough-chop the fillet, fold in mash and beaten egg, shape 2-inch patties and chill 30 minutes so they hold. Whisk flour, baking powder and seasoning, add ale to a thick batter and rest 15 minutes. Dust patties, dip in batter and fry in vegetable oil at 180°C (about 350°F) for 3–4 minutes each side until golden and shatter-crisp. Drain on kitchen paper and keep warm in a low oven.
Serve hot with the bright horseradish pickle, lemon wedges, a drizzle of malt vinegar, crusty pub bread or mushy peas if liked. Filleting needs a sharp 6-inch boning knife and steady hands to skin the Y-shaped bones clean. On a Thamesbank table by Richmond Lock the cakes steam under a gas-lamp, the ale in glasses beads with cold and a barge sighs past—salt, malt and riverlight on the plate.